Airbrush 101: A Guide To Airbrush Makeup

To those who have never tried airbrushing makeup it can seem intimidating and difficult. Using a compressor and airgun as well as liquid makeup is very different from the traditional makeup and brushes. However, the fundamental principles of makeup application remain the same and the sooner you pick up an airbrush makeup system, the sooner you will realize how easy it is and will be on your way to creating beautiful HD looks.

The Tools

An airbrush makeup kit is comprised of a compressor, an airbrush (or ‘stylus’) as well as the makeup. The compressor feeds air through a hose which is attached to the airbrush which releases a mixture of air and makeup when the trigger is depressed with the index finger. There are two types of airbrush: a single-action and a dual-action. The single-action only has one setting: a predetermined mix of air and makeup. Maklon Kosmetik The dual-action allows more control of the amount of air that is released through the airbrush, thus giving you more control.

The Makeup

There are several types of makeup used in airbrush makeup systems. Alcohol-based, silicone-based and water-based. Both alcohol and silicone can be an irritant to the skin so it is essential to test it on a small area before covering your entire face. Water-based airbrush makeup is simply fine pigments mixed with water and generally feel lighter on the skin. Silicone-based airbrush makeup will produce a more High Definition look but it is important to note that it has very specific reflective qualities which can cause unwanted reflections with a camera-flash or video and film lights.

How It Works

Basically airbrush makeup is a fine mist of tiny particles of liquid makeup that sits on the skin as opposed to being rubbed into the skin. The advantage of spraying droplets of makeup is that you can build up layers to gradually blend the look that you want, resulting in a much more natural look and flawless coverage.

Applying Airbrush Makeup

Very little makeup is used when airbrushing makeup. For foundation 6-12 drops is enough. Many brands will have a large range of foundation shades and can help you find the right shade for you. It is also possible to mix airbrush makeup to find just the right shade – which is done in the airbrush cup and by back-bubbling until the two shades mix. You never want to hold the airbrush closer than 6 inches from your face or further than 12. Use circular motions or a back-and-forth motion and gradually layer the foundation until you have achieved the result you want. Be confident and trust your eye. Keep your wrist steady. Make sure you do the same number of passes on both sides.

When contouring & highlighting, applying blush, eye-shadow or eye-liner a lower PSI is preferable. This allows for more control around difficult areas. For contouring and highlighting you need a shade or two darker such as a bronzer. Applying blush after foundation, contouring and highlighting means that it will stand out more. If you do it before-hand then it will be more subtle. The areas around the eye only require 2 drops of makeup. Be careful not to squint while applying eye-shadow as the makeup will accentuate the lines. It’s a lot easier to apply eye-liner and do your brows with stencils though, with practise, it is possible to do it freehand